Cozier by the Moment!

One of the things I love about moving into a new place is seeing the transformation that occurs. Over the months or years you can see how a place morphs into a home. I'm delighted to have my new additions a rug and some plants.

I finally bought some plants to bring a little life and positive chi into the place. I went into the shop thinking I'd get one and walked out with four, plus an extra that the shop keeper gave me, once I was already in the car, just for being nice. The best part was bartering. I'll take some credit for it. I was actually on my way back from language lessons but haven't gotten to the bartering yet. I started to ask for a deal and my guard went to bat for me and helped to get a great deal. Most foreigners don't even bother bartering here. It drives me crazy. That's the fun part of shopping in developing countries; it's part of the culture!

I also managed to snag a carpet from down the hall off of someone who recently left. It has been passed down several times and originally started in my room with someone else. It is much nicer than the cold marble floor beneath it. This gives me some time to look before I shop for carpets. Like everything else here finding a good deal on carpets isn't easy. I was told by a colleague not to bother buying a carpet if you aren't willing to spend two grand. I remember looking for a cheaper deal for a $200 back at home. While eventually I'm likely to lay down some money, though hopefully less than 2k, now I've got some time to look around before I do so.

I think for now those will be the most of my home improvements, but I have been wanting to get some pictures up...

Cheers,

Miel

P.S. That's my red scarf on the table!

Hobbies in Kabul

Afghanistan is treating me well. After a month in country it really feels as though I'm settling in to some good routines. While I've been enjoying spending more time relaxing and being social than I ever had time to do in DC, I'm also working on finding some good activities to engage in. Many expats here tend to spend all of their time working or watching TV. I'd like my time here to be more fulfilling than that alone, so I'm working a couple of new hobbies.

My first new hobby is knitting. Most of my friends are fabulous knitters so I figured this was an excellent place to join along in the fun. I'm working on a scarf that is just the perfect shade of red. Moving right along and having fun with it. I also have something to keep me busy while I'm watching DVDs or chatting on skype. I went on a yarn shopping spree before I got here so I should have a fair bit of work ahead of me.

Today I had my first Dari language lesson. Dari is the prevalent language in Kabul. More people in Afghanistan (outside of Kabul) speak Pashto, but Dari is the academic language. It is closely related to Farsi, spoken in Iran, Pakistan and other bordering countries. I'm just starting with the greetings and so forth but it feels good to be learning the language. The majority of international staff here don't learn much or any of the local language. I've already learned enough random languages that I'm not afraid to get out there on a limb. Most of them have been more utilitarian than anything. While I'm famous for learning a language very well and then moving on to another I'm very happy to have learned as many as I have - Finnish, Spanish, & Ewe very well and Fijian, Twi, & French on lower levels.

My final hobby that I'm getting into is photography. I've always been passionate about photography and think that now is a good time to expand on that. Afghanistan is a very photogenic country and the people are fabulous. It also gives a great opportunity to get to know the culture better. There is also a demand of good photography here so I might even do an exhibit once I have some good material. I've got a bunch of photos from a couple of weeks ago that I'll put up from time to time. Below are a couple that I particularly like.

The innocence here feels palpable. It reminds me that while most people outside of Afghanistan only have images of war and terrorism, most of everyday life in Kabul is simply every day life. It means having friends you can ask help of when you need it and being there for your family. These boys epitomize the strong ethics of your average Afghan.
I'll keep you posted on more of my photos as we go along.

Cheers,

Miel

Dangers of Afghanistan

My apologies in advance for the heaviness of the today's topic. I figure that underneath it all, folks are thinking of security issues when they imagine me in Afghanistan. Might as well bring it out in the open.

Today I had a shocking reminder of the dangers that exist no matter where you are in the world. I learned of the death of a colleague from another USAID contractor who has worked with me closely as the approving body of participant training. He dropped dead of a heart attack this weekend. After a year and a half in Iraq and six months in Afghanistan he went the same way he likely would have back home. One could say that living in such environments could have contributed to additional stress, but from my perspective there's a great deal more stress to be had within the beltway.

Worrying about my health is likely not the first concern of friends and family while I'm living in Kabul. After being here a month I'd have to say that the security situation seems pretty stable in Kabul. Generally I leave the residence and office about three times a week for a couple of meals or meetings. When I do so it is with a driver and guard, and likely with other internationals or Afghans. While kidnappings and the like are more common than I would like in Kabul, they tend to focus on folks who are unaccompanied and wandering around on their own. I haven't heard of any attempts with a guard at their side, the easy targets are simply easier.

Overall I feel pretty secure for the circumstances. Ninety percent of the time I'm at my office or room, so I figure that is the number one way to cut back on the risk. The treadmill remains useful in cutting down on other risks.

Safe tidings,

Miel

What is your work like?

As you can see, I work in a house that appears more like a wedding cake than an office building. INGOs (International Non-governmental Organizations) are basically stuck with the Pakistani chintz architecture that has made its way over the border. As you can see, modern style houses are nothing but elaborate and gaudy. I learned the other day that the office originally had light fixtures with martini glasses, complete with squizzler sticks and green olives, all over the place. They obviously replaced these with something a bit more office appropriate while we rent the place.

My office is on the bottom left of this picture. The office may appear large, but the staff of forty are pretty well squeezed in as tightly as we can. I currently share my office with my assistant, Shahab, and the Afghan Masters team. Wahid Omar, an Afghan-American from Boulder, and Massoud are developing the first ever masters program here in Afghanistan.

Our work schedule different than that in the states. Muslim faith has Friday for its day of prayer. Accordingly we have our weekends on Friday and Saturday and work Sunday -Thursday. Official office hours are 8am - 4:30pm. Though with the time difference it is often necessary to work in the evenings if you need to connect with folks on the other side of the globe.

Other than those things much of the workday is pretty similar to elsewhere. I generally have a meeting offsite once or twice a week and otherwise rarely depart from the two blocks between office and the guesthouse between Sunday and Thursday. Thus, Thursday is generally the night when folks are ready to get out of the house and go out for dinner.

Miel

What exactly are you are doing in Kabul?

I figure that I'll start with some of the basics here, like what I do. I know that given my line of work, people are often at a loss for what I actually do, particularly in Afghanistan.

I am now based in Kabul, Afghanistan working on the Higher Education Project (HEP). I am still with the employer I have been with since I moved to Washington, the Academy for Educational Development (AED).

To give you a bit of background on the project, the Higher Education Project is part of an overall program to rehabilitate and strengthen the capacity of the education system to improve access to quality education throughout Afghanistan. The project works to strengthen both the individual and institutional capacity of sixteen teacher training institutes. HEP focuses on strengthening the capacity of faculty educators to provide a better education for secondary schools. HEP is brought to you by the generous support of the American people with support from USAID. (United States Agency for International Development)

My new position as the International Training Coordinator of HEP will take me around Asia and the Middle East leading groups of Afghan University staff on training activities. The basic idea is to demonstrate the capacity of other Universities and equip them with the skills to develop their institutions back in Afghanistan. Thus, my position will have me traveling outside of Kabul. Potential training locations are Singapore, Thailand, Dubai, Delhi, and Kuala Lumpur.

I manage two local Afghan staff who help in fielding all of these participants. I'm currently working on setting up program management systems and designing study tours.

One perk of being half a word away from my dear husband, James, is that we will have the opportunity to rendezvous four times a year where ever we like. Our first R&R is scheduled for Iceland for Valentine's Day. (We figure if it is going to be cold it might as well be really cold!)

Feel free to let me know if you have questions about my work!

Miel

Miel's Abode in Kabul

Welcome to my abode!

Certainly a long ways from our place in Washington, but I've worked to make it a home away from home.

The placement of the room is superb, tucked away in the back left ground floor. Though I'd generally prefer to have a place further up, this keeps it away from the kitchen and gives me a view of the back garden.

The corner also gives me great morning light from two sides. Kabul is generally bright and sunny every day. As you can see, I've now set up my laptop facing the back garden, with a view of the roses for now.

One of the essentials that I brought along with me was a great set of bedding. Nice and cozy for those cold winter nights. I also brought along the red silk pillows that James & I bought on our honeymoon to think of us.

I do yoga and exercises in front the nice sized mirror. There is a treadmill that I worked out on several times a week down stairs as well.

As you can see I've also stocked up on yarn. I'm doing my first practice round and will have my work cut out for me this winter!

I'm still looking for the perfect Afghan rug to warm the place up. The floors are current marble, which is plentiful and cheap around here. If only for shipping.

My view of the back yard with red and pink roses in bloom and geraniums against the back wall.

I'm glad that I brought lots of great candles as well.

A perfect night in Kabul, only missing my dear husband James!

Much love,

Miel